April 2025.
Wailua, Hawaii.

Our boat silently glided to a quiet dock, tucked beneath a canopy of tropical green. As we eased toward the dock, the first drops of rain began to fall. Upon exiting the tour boat, we found ourselves on a short path that led into the lush greenery, where vines draped the cliffside and the air carried the scent of wet earth and tropical plants.

But I am getting ahead of myself. Let’s start at the beginning. The departure dock for the Smith’s Fern Grotto Tour is located at Kapaʻa on Hawaii’s island of Kauai. This is part of the Wailua Marina State Park, where Smith’s operates their open-air river cruise boats along the Wailua River. From this dock, we began the gentle upstream journey toward the Fern Grotto, with lush scenery, cultural music, and storytelling along the way.

As we started our sail to the Grotto, our tour guide introduced us to the Wailua River, Kauai’s largest and only navigable river. It winds 20 miles (32 km) from the slopes of Mount Waiʻaleʻale to the Pacific Ocean. Fed by two forks, it flows through a region once sacred to Hawaiian royalty, dotted with ancient heiau (temples) and lush jungle landscapes. Just two miles (3.2 km) upriver from the dock, the Fern Grotto feels worlds away, accessible only by boat and a brief walk through Kauai’s lush Wailua River valley.

We viewed hills along the river, for centuries draped in tropical green. The river water and ever-present rains nourish the landscape, flowing through a countryside once sacred to Hawaiian royalty. Ancient Hawaiians paddled these waters in double-hulled canoes, traveling between heiau and royal compounds. Today, the river still carries stories, and our guide shared some of them with us as we sailed slowly toward our destination.

Coming around a bend in the river, we saw the dock just as the mist gave way to a steady, rhythmic rain. The water darkened under the clouds, rippling gently as raindrops stitched patterns across its surface. Another Smith’s boat was docked quietly along the shoreline, half-shrouded by trees, awaiting the return of guests currently at the grotto.

Safely docked, while we waited for the other guests to return, the boat became a stage. A small group of musicians dressed in traditional Polynesian patterns gathered near the bow and filled the air with island music and stories. After a short time, the other guests boarded their boat, and we grabbed the provided umbrellas to venture out on the path to the grotto.

From the dock, a short, concrete walkway, less than a quarter mile long (half a kilometer), led us through a rainforest alive with color and moisture. Rain clung to broad leaves and red ginger blossoms, turning the foliage into a shimmering tapestry. Despite the tropical setting, the path was smooth and easy, winding gently beneath the canopy toward the grotto’s entrance.

A wide viewing platform revealed the core of the tropical sanctuary, offering a clear vantage point of the Fern Grotto’s mossy cliff face and hanging ferns. Designed for accessibility, the platform welcomes all visitors into this verdant retreat. Surrounded by dense foliage and wet with the gentle rain, it became an invitation to pause and take in the layered beauty of the grotto.

From the platform, the forest enveloped us. A philodendron formed a living curtain, its long, trailing vines cascading from the canopy. The leaves, broad and glossy, caught the filtered light, their surfaces slick from the afternoon shower.

Placards on the platform provided a narration punctuated by our tour guide, who answered our questions. The Fern Grotto is both a geological formation and a cultural landmark. Once a sacred site reserved for Hawaiian royalty, the grotto gained its lush appearance as ferns grew across its cliff face. Though hurricanes Iwa (1982) and Iniki (1992) stripped much of the vegetation, restoration efforts have helped the grotto recover. Following a 2006 rockfall that prompted safety concerns, the site was reinforced, and it is now viewed from a raised, accessible platform rather than being entered directly.

Now familiar, the same return path glistened with fresh rain and scattered leaves. Umbrellas bobbed along the concrete walkway as guests moved beneath the dripping canopy, the forest still teeming with moisture and color. Red ginger blooms and broad-leafed philodendrons seemed even more vivid on the return, their surfaces slick and shining.

On the walk back to the boat, the plentiful torch ginger blossoms stood out like tropical beacons, bold red flowers rising from the green stalks, one to a flower. Their waxy petals and cone-shaped crowns glistened with rain, catching the eye even in the subdued light beneath the canopy. These striking flowers were easily spotted in the foliage lining the path, thriving in the damp soil in clusters.

We reassembled on the Johnny Mac, umbrellas dripping and spirits still lifted from the walk, only to learn the boat had developed mechanical trouble. No one seemed too concerned, and the performers hadn’t packed up. While we waited for the rescue boat to arrive, the musicians launched into another round of songs and stories. It felt less like a delay and more like a bonus track; an unscripted encore that turned a logistical hiccup into one of the most memorable moments of the day.

Before long, the Ronnie K. rounded the bend in the river, its green and white hull cutting through the mist. In short order, the crew made quick work of docking alongside the Johnny Mac. With possessions and cameras in our hands, we stepped across to the waiting boat, thankful that the rain had all but stopped. The transfer was smooth and good-natured, and within minutes, we were back on course, the musicians already tuning up again as the river carried us toward the excursion dock.

As the Ronnie K. pulled away from the dock, the entertainers resumed their place at the front of the boat, undeterred by the earlier delay. One performer, adorned with vibrant tropical flowers and framed by the soft green of the riverbank, sang and told stories, accompanied by her colleagues as they brought our excursion to a conclusion. Her voice carried the echoes of Kauai’s past, of aliʻi, of rain gods, of river journeys long before ours.

The river widened as we drifted downstream, its surface mirroring the overcast sky and the dense green hills that flanked us. As we enjoyed the stories and songs, the excursion would serve as a reminder of the island’s rich and layered history.

The shoreline of the marina came into view, framed by palms, the light softened by the subdued skies. Cars dotted the lot beyond, a subtle reminder that there are other journeys to come. But for a few more minutes, we remained immersed in the rhythm of the river. The music faded into the hum of the boat’s engine and the gentle slapping of water on the hull. We took one last look back at the river before we stepped ashore.

As of this writing, cruises depart from the Wailua River Marina State Park in Kapaʻa, with scheduled departures at 9:30 am, 11:00 am, 2:00 pm, and 3:30 pm on select weekdays. It’s a good idea to book in advance, as tours can fill up quickly. The round-trip journey takes approximately 1 hour and 20 minutes, including a brief nature walk to the grotto. Tickets for us were $35 per adult, with discounts for children and groups. Be sure to check the Smith’s website here to confirm details and pricing. The spacious, open-air boats are shaded and comfortable, offering panoramic views and live entertainment featuring Hawaiian music, storytelling, and hula. While the vessels are not fully ADA accessible, staff can assist with boarding as needed. This gentle adventure is ideal for all ages and offers a memorable glimpse into Kauai’s natural beauty and cultural heritage.

About the photos: All of the photos were taken with a Nikon Z7 II and 28-400mm lens. The images were processed with Adobe Lightroom Classic and/or Luminar Neo. Some photos had distractions removed via AI. I’ve posted a more complete gallery of pictures on my Flickr site here.

John Steiner