February 2025.
São Miguel, Portugal.

I have learned that it’s not always productive to take photos from bus windows during our cruise tours; however, the scenery was so beautiful that I couldn’t help but take a few pictures of the stunning terrain. The road curved and climbed, almost to the clouds, and as we came back around a hairpin turn, I saw the city of Ribeira Grande and the ocean below. But I skipped a few dozen photos to share this photo of Lagoa do Fugo Highway as an opening shot.

Part 2 of this story finds us traveling along the ring highway, a road that, like many islands, was constructed to allow travel to the seaports that serve the island population. In only a short time, the views of the ocean were replaced by mountain views as our bus started the climb to Lagoa do Fugo, the Lake of Fire.

Just before exiting the Ring Road, I snapped the last close photo of the ocean as we started our climb to Água de Pau Massif (Massif of Water and Wood), a volcanic complex in central São Miguel Island. This massif is actually a stratovolcano, and the lake itself sits inside its summit caldera, formed by a dramatic collapse following ancient eruptions. Massif is a geological term used in both Portuguese and English to describe a compact group of connected mountains or a significant mountainous structure.

On the road, our tour guide gave us a rundown on life on the island. On São Miguel Island, dairy farming is the dominant purpose for cattle. The island’s lush, rain-fed pastures and mild climate make it ideal for year-round grazing, which supports a thriving dairy industry. São Miguel produces about 30% of Portugal’s cow’s milk, despite being just a small fraction of the country’s landmass.

Cows are often referred to as “Vacas Felizes” (Happy Cows) because they graze freely outdoors and are rarely confined. The island is known for its cheese, butter, and fresh milk, with several creameries and cooperatives exporting products across Europe.

The most striking feature I saw out the bus window on our journey was the incredibly vibrant green of the hills, fertile soil, and a humid climate. The undulating hills and the general topography suggest a volcanic origin for the island, which is well-known for its volcanic landscapes. While São Miguel is volcanically active and experiences frequent seismic activity, the last on-land eruption on the island occurred relatively recently, in 1652.

The Forest Reserve of Recreio da Chã da Macela offers a tranquil escape into nature and a panorama of the island’s volcanic landscape. In the background, small volcanic cones known as “Picos” are amid the lush green pastures and forests. As we climbed higher, the clouds became closer and more threatening. The guide was concerned that our view of the Lake of Fire might be obscured by the clouds covering the viewpoint.

The forest recreation reserve is nestled within the southern slopes of the Água de Pau Massif, situated along our ascent to Lagoa do Fogo. It’s a peaceful, green retreat that blends nature, leisure, and education. The road winds past pastures and green hedgerows, and we stopped at a clearing complete with cool, fresh air and the ever-changing weather.

I created this panoramic view from the Lagoa do Fogo viewpoint by stitching two images together. Much of the lake is obscured by the rising caldera wall in the foreground at the left. The lake was calm, and the turquoise waters nestled within the volcanic caldera. Overhead, the sky featured a mix of clouds and a light sprinkle. After a short visit to the viewpoint, we boarded the bus and went on our way to Ribeira Grande.

After enjoying the quiet views around Lagoa do Fogo, we hopped back on the highway and started heading north. The mountain gave way to those greener pastures and more expansive skies as we made our way toward Ribeira Grande. Next time, I’ll take you through that part of the island, and the road has a few more surprises tucked around the bend.

About the photos: In all, I took over 60 pictures of our trip up to the lake and down the mountain on the other side. Captured with my Nikon Z7 II, the images were processed in Adobe Lightroom Classic and Luminar Neo. AI technology was used to remove distractions in some of the pictures. Here, I am sharing the most representative of the journey; however, I published fourteen photos of the journey on my Flickr site in 2K HD here. Those images tell a more complete story of the beauty of São Miguel Island.

John Steiner