September 2023

Alamogordo, New Mexico.

White Sands National Park is one of a kind. On a trip through New Mexico, we stopped to visit its rolling white dunes. Made of sparkly gypsum crystals, the park encompasses Earth’s biggest gypsum dune field. The area, tucked away in the Tularosa Basin, became a national monument in 1933 and was promoted to national park status in 2019. The park’s unusual setup is also home to various plants and animals that have adapted to thrive here.

The park service personnel routinely plow the gypsum dunes. Driving through the dunes with our air conditioning on gave me the feeling of returning home in North Dakota, but stepping out of the car told me a different story. On the day of our visit, the temperature was in the 90s F (30s C).

According to the National Park Service, White Sands’ maintenance crew plows the gypsum sand road smoothly at least twice a week. Or at least, that’s how much it was happening in 2023. Hopefully, the park has not lost many maintenance staff to keep the roads in the park passable.

No car or RV camping is allowed within the park, but people can “day camp” by putting up shades or tents next to their vehicles. There are no overnight camping facilities.

Millions of years ago, the area was covered by ancient seas, which deposited layers of gypsum, a mineral, on the seafloor. Tectonic plate movements led to the formation of mountains surrounding the Tularosa Basin. This basin became a closed drainage system, meaning water that entered it could not flow out.

The Interdune Boardwalk at White Sands National Park is an accessible, easy, 0.4-mile (650 m) round-trip walk. It’s designed to suit everyone, including those using wheelchairs and strollers. The boardwalk takes you through the fragile interdune area, offering scenic views of the Dunefield and the Sacramento Mountains.

White Sands National Park only offers backcountry camping. This means there are no designated campgrounds with amenities like hookups or restrooms. Backcountry camping requires a permit, which must be obtained at the visitor center on the day of your planned stay. In summary, camping in White Sands is a primitive experience that requires careful planning and adherence to park regulations. Always check the official National Park Service website here for the most up-to-date information before planning your trip.

Many shade canopies were planted on top of the dunes. Families brought equipment for sliding down the dunes. It’s important to differentiate between “snow” sleds and sledding on the “sand” at White Sands National Park. Plastic snow saucer-type sleds work best for sliding down the gypsum dunes. They can be purchased at the park or brought in for day use. Applying wax to the bottom of the sleds significantly improves their performance on the sand.

There are easy boardwalks if you’re just looking to stroll or more demanding backcountry trails if you’re up for a challenge. But those shifting sands can be tricky, so staying on marked trails is essential. A hiker’s GPS can be a valuable accessory for long hikes.

Our 90-degree day was scorching. Hikers must dress appropriately, pack plenty of water, apply sunscreen, and plan hikes for the cooler parts of the day. Most importantly, keeping safe and caring for the environment is key to thoroughly enjoying a dune hike.

When exposed to moisture and dried, gypsum sand can form a crust or become more compacted. Over time, layers of this consolidated gypsum can develop within the dunes. Wind erosion can then expose these more rigid layers, creating outcroppings. The outcroppings often provide a more stable substrate for plants to root in compared to the loose sand of the dunes. This is why vegetation like salt cedar and cachanilla grows there.

White Sands National Park is a magical place to sled down dunes, hike otherworldly trails, and marvel at nature’s creativity. Remember to treat it kindly: stay on marked trails, take all your trash with you, and leave the sand where it belongs—don’t scoop up souvenirs. The park’s open year-round, but always check the weather before you head out, as the desert can be tricky with its temperature swings. Pack some sunscreen and plenty of water.

I found photography challenging in the park. Processing the images presented a problem I hadn’t anticipated. I used automatic metering and automatic white balancing on my Nikon D500 for these photos. When I processed the pictures in Adobe Lightroom Classic, the automatic white balance set the large areas of white to a mid-gray tone. I tried to adjust the white balance to my liking, but couldn’t get the image to mimic the dazzling white gypsum I remembered. I’ve posted this gallery of photos in 2K HD on my Flickr site here for pixel-peepers.

John Steiner