October 2024

Morlaix, Brittany, France.

We often travel through the countryside on our cruise stops to see more inland cities. In Europe, that frequently means older towns with buildings built through many different centuries. On this journey, we ventured to Morlaix for a city walking tour. The street view above features a more modern city section with a magnificent railway viaduct in the background.

It’s about an hour’s drive from the cruise port to Morlaix. On the way, we were presented with many rural views of the French countryside. The photo above is a two-image panorama typical of the pastoral scenes along our route. The soft light from the overcast sky was punctuated by rain showers as our tour guide gave us a descriptive narration.

Morlaix has a history of conflict, including being captured by the English in 1187 and again in 1522. This history of conflict led to the construction of defensive structures in the area. The church dates back to the 15th century, with the bell tower added in 1548 and significant modifications in 1894.

The railway viaduct is a defining feature of Morlaix. It was built in the 19th century (completed in 1864) as part of the railway line connecting Paris to Brest. The viaduct’s grand arches and stone construction are a testament to the engineering prowess of the era. It spans the valley of the Jarlot River, providing breathtaking views of the town.

In this view, the buildings lining the street are typical of older European towns, with closely packed facades, varying heights, and traditional materials. As we walked toward the church, we transitioned through older city sections.

On city tours, we are guaranteed to stop at European churches; this tour was no exception. I took some interior photos but didn’t get a decent shot of the church entrance—just the bell tower.

Saint Matthew’s Church is a compilation of architectural history. Parts of the structure date from the 15th century, and further modifications and evolutions have been performed throughout the centuries.

As we walked through the streets of the old city, we found many residences with a similar design. We were even given a walk-through of a typical residence now open as a museum. This type of house is unique to Morlaix and the surrounding region. It’s characterized by the central chimney stack, the overhanging upper stories (often with corbelled supports), and the use of half-timbering. The “pondalez” refers to the central hearth and chimney system.

Our tour guide noted these houses demonstrate Morlaix’s prosperity during the 16th and 17th centuries, when the town thrived on the linen trade. They represent a period of economic and cultural flourishing. While there might be some later additions or renovations, the core structures of these buildings reflect Morlaix’s rich architectural heritage from that period.

Our next stop was the Église Saint-Mélaine (Saint Melaine Church). This house of worship has a rich history that spans several centuries. On our walking tour, we approached the church from a side that blocked the view of its beautiful spire. The city’s famed viaduct is visible in the background.

A small church was built on the site in the twelfth century to serve the community. By the 15th century, the parishioners decided to construct a new, larger church in the Gothic style. Construction began in 1489, starting with the south porch. The main structure was completed in the 1570s with the addition of the bell tower, which initially had a lead dome.

In 1879, the original Renaissance dome of the bell tower was replaced with the current spire, which is made of wood and covered in zinc. The church was not unscathed during World War II. In 1943, a bomb fell near the church, causing significant damage to the north aisles. Restoration work was undertaken to repair the damage. The parish continues to serve as an active place of worship for the community in Morlaix.

As we walked, we transitioned into a commercial neighborhood. Our guide noted that the taller, more uniform buildings and the wider street suggest that Rue Carnot developed later than the medieval core of Morlaix, probably during the 18th or 19th centuries. This was a time of expansion and modernization for many European towns.

The Dossen Canal is the primary waterway that flows through Morlaix, eventually leading to the Bay of Morlaix. Morlaix’s origins as a medieval port town suggest that some buildings along the canal could have medieval foundations or remnants, even if they’ve been modified over time. The neighborhood we visited represents a mix of buildings from different periods, with the oldest potentially dating back to the 18th or 19th centuries. The neighborhood has evolved, showcasing a blend of architectural styles and historical layers. The bridge over the canal leads to a restaurant.

Our virtual walking tour of Morlaix ended with a reboarding of our tour bus. From the imposing Viaduct of Morlaix to the cobblestone streets and the elegant “maisons à pondalez,” Morlaix left us with memories of its rich architectural heritage, historical landmarks, and the sense of a place where the past and present coexist. Morlaix has genuinely offered up a journey through time and a glimpse into the heart of Brittany’s cultural heritage. For those who like to pixel-peep at the photographs, they are posted in 2K HD on my Flickr album here.

John Steiner